Butterfly holiday in Western Africa
Ghana, 14 days + 5 days extension
Ghana has 928 butterfly species, more yet to be found. It is nearly double as many as in entire Europe and is the highest in West Africa apart from the Oban Hills at the easternmost part of Nigeria and western Cameroon. 4/5 of the total species are confined to rainforest or high forest areas, which are amongst the most endangered tropical habitats, threatened by both legal and illegal logging and open pit mining. ECOTOURS’ Butterfly Tour Ghana tries to help the conservation of the remaining rainforests as important butterfly areas through organized nature tours, with raising awareness for butterfly conservation internationally and generate income for the local communities with using their accommodations and giving jobs for local guides.
The Butterfly Tour Ghana is organized by ECOTOURS in collaboration with Butterfly Conservation Society, Ghana (BCGHANA). Professional tour leaders are provided by ECOTOURS (and/or other partner agencies), while technical guides are from BCGHANA and local communities or conservation authorities. The quality of accommodations varies according to the location of the destination. We usually choose our hotels with the highest comfort available, but while on field we prefer to choose inns or guesthouses managed by local communities to help the management and maintenance of the community based conservational areas (e.g. Boabeng-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary) and usually they situate very close to the visited sites. ECOTOURS is a responsible company, committed oneself helping sustainable conservation with ecotourism activities; therefore 10% of the profit is paid as donation for BCGHANA’s conservational projects.
Recommended literature:
Torben B. Larsen – Butterflies of West Africa, Apollo Books 2005 (www.apollobooks.com). The author collected all available information about West African butterflies as well as he did an extensive survey in the region, with a special focus on Ghanaian butterflies. The key in the text together with the plate volume is an excellent tool for identification for most of the groups.
Szabolcs Sáfián, Torben B. Larsen, Kwaku Aduse-Poku – Butterflies of Ghana (ghanabutterflies.bcghana.org) This homepage will be a digital alternative source with images of set specimens as well as nature photos of lots of species that never been photographed before, although the site is still under construction.
Day 1
Arrival to Accra in the evening. Accommodation at Shangri-La Hotel at the Airport.
In the evening we organize a welcome drink, an introduction section and our professional guide will take a brief presentation about butterflies of Ghana.
Accommodation: Accra
Days 2-3
Early morning departure to Sagyimaase on the piedmonts of Atewa Range (100 km from Accra), to visit one of the few remaining upland evergreen forests in West Africa. The area is rich in endemic species most of which are exceedingly rare, that only few specimens are known to exist in collections: Atewa Ciliate Blue (Anthene atewa), Western Black-Spot Ciliate Blue (Anthene starki), while the Atewa Dotted Border (Mylothris atewa) can be locally common in certain gathering spots in the forest. The Atewa Range has an estimated number of 650-700 species, including the largest African butterfly the Giant African Swallowtail (Papilio antimachus), which can be seen very rarely, only when mostly the males come down for a drink to streambanks or mudpuddles. The range is home for lots of interesting Charaxes species, which usually stay high in the canopy, where they can be seen flying rapidly around trees, but they are attracted by fruit-bait traps. Males of the Charaxes group visit foul substances as well, not rarely 5-10 gather on rotting fish bait, where we might have a closer look on them. Forest Pearl Charaxes (Charaxes fulvescens), Flame-bordered Charaxes (Charaxes protoclea), Common Blue Charaxes (Charaxes tiridates) are among the commoner species, while Emerald Blue Charaxes (Charaxes smaragdalis butleri), Euphaedra Charaxes (Charaxes fournierae) and Peter’s Demon Charaxes (Charaxes petersi) are rare and not easy to trap. The Atewa Range is among the few places, where two species of orange Euphaedras or commonly called Foresters are locally abundant: Green Orange Forester (Euphaedra zampa) and Perseis Mimic Forester (Euphaedra perseis). The Bush Browns are a group close to the Ringlets of the Palaearctic. In Ghana 31 species have been recorded. Some of the species are restricted to forests in pristine condition and can rarely be seen, because they usually stay in the darkest place of the forest with thick understorey vegetation. Atewa forms the westernmost occurrence of the rare White-tipped Bush Brown (Bicyclus sylvicolus). It is commoner though in the Volta Region. Noble Bush Brown (Bicyclus nobilis) and Ignoble Bush Brown (Bicyclus ingnobilis) are among the most graceful butterflies in Africa, both are also found in Atewa.
Accommodation: a small and nice hotel in Asiakwa
Day 4
After a tiring hiking tour in the Atewa Range we continue for a much relaxing and very scenic place called Bobiri Forest (200 km from Asiakwa), the only designated conservation area for butterflies in Ghana. Though the area initially was selected for forestry research, with some hope that the name ‘Butterfly Sanctuary’ will attract tourists from abroad, the real values remained hidden until the last few years, when serious butterfly research has showed that the real number of butterfly species is far over 400 species, including the magnificent Giant African Swallowtail (Papilio antimachus). The butterfly garden around the guesthouse can attract an enormous amount of swallowtails including Mocker Swallowtail (Papilio dardanus), sometimes 3-4 females are sucking nectar from the flowers (normally females are very rarely seen in high numbers), Narrow-Banded Green Swallowtail (Papilio nireus), Western Yellow-banded Swallowtail (Papilio menestheus) together with White's Large Vagrant (Nepheronia argia), Blue Vagrant (Nepheronia thalassina). The butterfly garden also attracts a noticeable number of larger skippers. Blue Red-Eye (Pteroteinon laufella) and White-banded Red-Eye (Pteroteinon caenira) are common here, while with some luck Green-winged Red-Eye (Pteroteinon iricolor) can be seen on the flowers. Several Euphaedras can be caught with fruit baited traps, including the rare Western Blue-banded Forester (Euphaedra eupalus), with the more common Janetta Themis Forester (Euphaedra janetta), and Ghana Ceres Forester (Euphaedra ignota). Other species also visit the traps; the Common Palm Forester (Bebearia cocalia) and Sophus Forester (Bebearia sophus) are common visitors, while Western White-tipped Bush Brown (Bicyclus abnormis) is a rare deep forest species. Although not rare the in Bobiri, Common Giant Epitola (Epitola posthumus) and Libert’s Giant Epitola (Epitola uranoides) stay high only to show their bright iridescent blue colour, while the magnificent Large Tiger Blue (Hewitsonia boisduvalii) sits on tendrils to hide one of the most beautiful blue colour on butterflies. All three species can be described as “small Morphos”. During the preparation of the extensive species list in the late afternoon, a cold beer is served on the terrace of the guest house. Optional moth trapping is also available upon request.
Accommodation: guest house with clean and comfortable double rooms and shared bathrooms
Days 5-6
Early in the morning we walk around the Butterfly Garden to find more skippers which are attracted by planted flowers. The morning is also good to find displaying male Epitoliini. We also hope to find some of the commoner Lipteniini as well. Western Pearly (Eresiomera bicolor) and Common Pearly (Eresiomera isca) are regularly found around the guesthouse, while some of the smaller relatives of the group are also present such as Theodor’s Eresina (Eresina theodori). The day’s most unexpected catch would the Unexpected Tiger Blue (Hewitsonia inexpectata), while the highlight is definitely the large number of Charaxes in the traps including Lesser Blue Charaxes (Charaxes numenes) and hopefully the rare Hildebrandt’s Charaxes (Charaxes hildebrandti).
Accommodation: guest house with clean and comfortable double rooms and shared bathrooms
Day 7
Early morning departure to Kakum National Park. Arrival in the afternoon to Hans Cottage Botel that is an excellent place for ecotourists. It is a system of wooden cottages built on an artificial lake system, with crocodiles and good birdlife in the surrounding environment.
Accommodation: Hans Cottage
Day 8
During a full day excursion to Kakum National Park we will climb the world-famous Canopy Walkway where we have the chance to watch canopy butterflies from the hanging bridges. After the Canopy Walkway, we take a walk in the Kakum Forest (a moist evergreen forest) to see many of the African Fairy Hairstreaks, including Kakum Fairy Hairstreak (Hypolycaena kakumi). The Genus of Western Kakumia (Kakumia otlauga) was also named after the forest. We also hope to see lots of Acraea dancing during the walk, but the species are just impossible to list, because the recorded number is above 500!!!
Kakum is also said to be one of the last refuges for the Forest Elephants, but it is like a ghost, everyone heard about them, but nobody has seen any…
Accommodation: Hans Cottage
Day 9
In the morning we visit a different part of Kakum Forest, where we hope to see some of the African Gliders like Scalloped Yellow Glider (Cymothoe fumana), Common Yellow Glider (Cymothoe egesta), Western Red Glider (Cymothoe mabillei) and the rare Auberger’s Yellow Glider (Cymothoe aubergeri).
In the afternoon we travel down to Cape Coast, to visit the slavery museum in Fort Cape Coast, which once was the busiest slave trade centre in West Africa. In the evening we continue to Accra where we overnight.
Accommodation: Accra
Day 10
We travel to the Volta Region with a stop at Shai Hills Nature Reserve (departure early in the morning with packed breakfast). The Shai Hills is a former sacred grove and burial place for the Shai tribe, now protected under the authority of Wildlife Division. The vegetation is mainly Guinea savannah as the area is situated in the Dahomey Gap (a tongue of savannah land which plays an important role of zoogeographical barrier separating the West African forest block from the central equatorial rainforest zone). On the rocky outcrops of the hills we find some of the remaining dry open forests (Southern Outline type). The butterflies here are typical savannah species, in the dry season they frequently come to water for mudpuddling. Here we will meet some of the commonest and ubiquitous African species such as Citrus Swallowtail (Papilio demodocus), Mocker Swallowtail (Papilio dardanus), the African Emigrant (Catopsilia florella) and the rare Large Striped Swordtail (Graphium antheus). A real West African endemic skipper the Western Blue Policeman (Pyrrhiades lucagus) is also found in the area, its distribution is restricted to the costal belt of Ghana and Cote d’Ivoire, apart from an isolated colony in northern Ghana. Small blue lyceanids will be seen flying along short grass patches, the commoner species are African Grass Blue (Zizeeria knysna), Tiny Grass Blue (Zizula hylax) and Smokey Bean Cupid (Euchrysops malathana). The sight of the graceful African Monarch (Danaus chrysippus) is always a delight, it is often seen flying around Milkweed plants throughout Africa. Other natural attractions are Olive Baboons, a number of antelopes and the cave of fruit bats. Shai Hills is also home to a good number of birds.
Lunch and refreshments will be organized at the restaurant at Shai Hills, after the fieldtrip the group will continue to Hohoe.
Accommodation: Hohoe
Day 11
We have a full day trip to Wli Waterfalls at Agumatsa Nature Reserve. The area is one of the last remaining patches of the Togo Mountains’ once extensive forests, with a bunch of endemic butterfly species. One of the most beautiful butterflies is Volta Swallowtail (Papilio nobicea). The Volta Region is also a western boundary for lots of interesting species which don’t penetrate Ghana proper. The Common Orange Forester (Euphaedra ruspina) is sometimes not rare around the waterfall but is always shy, mostly found in fruit-baited traps. Imperial Charaxes (Charaxes imperialis) and Green-veined Charaxes (Charaxes candiope) are rare species; both were found in low numbers around Wli, but only in canopy traps.
The waterfall itself is a very scenic place, inside the forest. The height is to be said approximately 40 metres, but we’ve heard several options between 28 and 60m. There is a colony of fruit-feeding bats on the rocks around the waterfall, the population is estimated to be 500,000 specimens.
Accommodation: Hohoe
Day 12
On the way to Aburi Botanical Gardens we stop at few butterfly spots to find more of the special Volta species including Large Orange Playboy (Deudorix dinomenes diomedes) and Nigerian Pierid Blue (Larinopoda aspidos).
We will also stop at Tofi Atome, a monkey sanctuary in the Volta Region where there is a chance to see the nominate subspecies of Mona Monkey.
Evening arrival to Aburi Botanical Gardens, overnight in the Gardens.
Accommodation: guesthouse of Aburi Garden
Day 13
The Aburi Botanical Gardens (50 km from Accra) itself was a hospital and sanatorium for soldiers and officers during the British colonial era. The Akwapim Scarp on which it is situated has a very pleasant climate, with cool evenings and moderate daily maximum temperatures. The place is excellent for acclimatization. We will spend the entire day within the boundaries of the Aburi Botanical Gardens which is home for more than 300 butterfly species, including many rarities of the Lipteninae subfamily of Blues (Lycaenidae). They are mostly visible in the morning hours, when the males do display flight in open areas not rarely at furious speed, while the females stay close to the very old “ant trees” in the garden, which carry big blackish “bumps”, nets of Crematogaster ants on the treetrunks. Most species of the Lipteninae group are said to live in association with Crematogaster ants, the caterpillars live inside or around the ant nests, and they are usually active during the night, when they feed on algae, strongly guarded by the ant workers. Incredible Sapphire Gem (Iridana incredibilis) and Nigerian Sapphire Gem (Iridana nigeriana) are among the rarely seen blue species in West Africa, they mostly fly high up in the canopy level, and both were recorded in Aburi. The botanical garden is really a refuge for many other Lipteninae in Ghana, since all the surrounding forests have been destroyed not so long ago. Western Tiger Blue (Hewitsonia occidentalis) is among the largest blues in West Africa and is also present in the park. From the smaller but not less beautiful Epitoliini Crowley’s Epitola (Cerautola crowleyi), Silvery Epitola (Cerautola ceraunia), Roche’s Epitola (Cephetola subcoerulea), Obscure Epitola (Cephetola obscura), Greasy Epitola (Cephetola sublustris), Common Flash (Hypophytala hyettoides), Gerina Epitola (Geritola gerina), Black-wing Epitola (Geritola virginea), Black-Square Epitola (Stempfferia staudingeri) were seen in the gardens, most species are very rare in Ghana. The largest of all African Hesperiidae, the African Giant Skipper (Pyrrhochalcia iphis) is also present in the Gardens, the sight of the moderately slow skipping flight is a real delight. The Gardens are also a type locality for a series of butterfly species, since it was a destination of butterfly collectors during the colonial times. Savannah or Aburi Dotted Border (Mylothris aburi) was named after the Gardens.
The restaurant in the Gardens has excellent food, so we enjoy lunch and supper here.
Accommodation: guesthouse of Aburi Garden
Day 14
The final day is a relaxing discussion day, with good opportunities of sighting a new butterfly species in the Gardens. Early afternoon we depart to Accra International Airport.
Those who are staying for the extension spend the night in Accra.
Extension to Ankasa National Park
Days 15 - 18
During the extension, we spend 4 days in Ankasa Conservation Area, where we hope to include lots of rare wet forest butterflies to our list, whivh are found in Ankasa National Park – Nini Suhien Nature Reserve at the south-western corner of Ghana. It is the only National Park in the wet evergreen forest zone. With some luck we will see some of the most particular species here. The Ghost (Pseudopontia paradoxa) is a small, silvery-white butterfly, which has a very weak flight. Hadrian’s White Charaxes (Charaxes hadrianus) and Noble Charaxes (Charaxes nobilis) are big rarities in West Afrcia, though they were consequently recorded from Ankasa. The area is a real paradise for understorey butterflies. We can expect lots of Nymph species including Veronica’s Nymph (Euriphene veronica) and Ankasa is also rich in Euphaedra species.
Accommodation: guesthouse of the National Park
Day 19
On the last day we travel back to Accra, for our flight home in the late afternoon.