A record of birds seen on an Ecotours trip to Hungary and Slovakia
30th April - 8th May 2007
Introduction
This is a record of a birdwatching trip made to Hungary and Slovakia for seven days from 30th April to 8th May 2007. Those on the trip were Celia Barton, Phyllis and Vernon Davies, Dot and Roy Head, Chris and Roy Johnson and Pam and John Smallwood.
Preparation
Arrangements for the tour and for the flight were made by Pam and myself. After speaking to Gabor Orban of Ecotours Ltd at the British Bird Fair, the opportunity of taking one of their birding tours was put to our friends and nine of us choose to go on it. Flights were booked through Thomas Cook on Jet2 from Manchester International Airport to Budapest Ferihegy Airport. Transport from home to the airport and return was arranged by Phyllis with Topline Coaches.
The Tour
The chosen tour was booked directly through Ecotours with all correspondence being conducted by e-mail between Balazs Szigeti and me. The chosen tour was their 9-day Birds and Bears tour of Hungary and Slovakia.
We were met at Budapest Airport by our Guide, Attila Steiner, and the mini-coach driver, Tibor and driven north to Szentendre near the Danube Bend for the first night. The following three nights were spent in a hotel at Bobrovnik in Northern Slovakia overlooking a large lake with the High Tatras in the background. For the next three nights we moved south to the Slovakian Karst region to a hotel surrounded by forest near to Jasov. For the last night we drove south, back into Hungary, to Noszvaj, 10 kilometers east of Eger before returning to Budapest for the flight home. More details of the tour are given in the Itinerary and Travel Notes on page 4.
Guides
Our guide for the tour was Attila Steiner, Ecotour’s Principle Guide and Tour Consultant. During our time in Slovakia, we also had three local guides. They were Dusan Karaska on the 2nd May, Samuel Pacenovsky on the 5th and István Matis, better known as Pista, on the 6th and 7th.
In addition to the guides, we had a dedicated driver of the coach, Tibor.
Accommodation
We stopped at four different hotels; two in Hungary for one night each and two in Slovakia, both for three nights. All accommodation was more than adequate, warm and comfortable with a good shower, although a bed in one of the hotels was somewhat on the short side!
Although we did not have the option of having a chose of dishes, the meals we were presented with, both at breakfast and dinner, were all very enjoyable and more than adequate. Lunch was always a picnic that we prepared ourselves from the breakfast table. Wine, which was all Central European, was plentiful and drunk each evening with dinner and found to be very pleasant. We did manage to drink one hotel dry of their red wine; on two evenings!
Conclusions
As stated above, all pre trip exchange of correspondence had been conducted by e-mail and when obtaining information regarding the trip, or the countries, or answers to any question, Balazs Szigeti of Ecotours was quick to answer. On arrival in Hungary we were given check-lists, up to date itineraries, and other relevant information.
The number of bird species seen was somewhat higher than expected, although as is always the case on trips such as this there were a few that eluded us, but we did see all the woodpeckers and had superb views of the Tengmalm’s and Ural Owls.
A few mammals were seen. Insects, particularly butterflies, were well in evidence and we were able to get close enough to get good photographs of a lot of them.
The three local guides were all very good and worked hard to find birds for us. Dusan Karaska was able to lead us to the nest hole of an Ural Owl as well as a Three-toed Woodpecker, both giving us good views. Samuel Pacenovsky battled with very wet weather but showed us the delightful Tengmalm’s Owl as well as White-winged Black Tern. Pista Matis was with us for two days and was able to lead us to Wryneck, Grey-headed, Middle Spotted, White-backed and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers as well as River Warbler. On the evening of the 7th, Pista erected mist nets at the rear of the hotel and we were able to see bats caught in them. We thank them all.
However, our greatest thanks for the success of the trip must go to our two travelling companions, guide Attila Steiner and driver Tibor. Attila’s knowledge of bird calls and skill in spotting the birds, as well as his determination that we all had good views of them, plus his good sense of humour and willingness to pander to all our little idiosyncrasies made for a successful and enjoyable trip. Tibor drove the coach with much consideration for other road users and for his passengers and when not driving was only too willing to help Attila lug the cases around and help both Attila and his passengers in any way he could. Our grateful thanks go to them both.
The consensus of the group was that the whole trip had been a great success and had been thoroughly enjoyed by all.
Our final list of bird species was 166, which included a personal ‘new bird’ list of 4 to which must be added the various mammals, reptiles, insects and flowers we saw along the way.
Any further information can be obtained from John Smallwood
johnsmallwood@blueyonder.co.uk
REFERENCES
Books
Michael Chinery. 1986. Collins Guide to the Insects of Britain and Western Europe
Blamey & Grey-Wilson. 1989. The Illustrated Flora of Great Britain and Northern Europe.
Mullarney, Svensson, Zetterström & Grant. 2001. Collins Bird Guide.
Arnold and Ovenden. 2002. Collins Field Guide Reptiles & Amphibians Britain & Europe.
Waring, Townsend & Lewington. 2003. Field Guide to the Moths of Great Britain & Ireland.
Lafranchis. 2004. Butterflies of Europe
Maps
Michelin National Series Number 732. 1:400,000. Hungary
Mair Dumont General Map. 1:200.000. Slovakia
ITINERARY AND TRAVEL NOTES
The following is a summery of the places and various sites visited on our trip to Hungary and Slovakia, together with details of the birds seen and heard. A first time sighting or hearing of a bird is shown in Bold lettering while any mention of a bird not seen is shown in Italics.
To avoid duplication, the more common species that were seen most days have not, apart from their first sighting, have been included in the following notes.
For complete details of all the birds seen, refer to the Systematic Lists on page 10
Monday, 30th April
Route: Manchester International Airport/Budapest Ferihegy Airport – Budapest - Szentendre
Weather: Generally clear skies with little cloud and light wind.
Birds: 12 New Birds: 12 Total To Date: 12
An early morning start to drive to Phyl and Vernon’s house where we were picked up by the coach from Topline for the journey to the airport. On the way we picked up Celia, Chris and Roy J and Dot and Roy H. The traffic on the journey was lighter than expected and we arrived with plenty of time to spare before checking in, having a meal and doing the tour of the Duty Free shops. Flight with Jet2 on a 737-400 was late taking off at 2.30pm but was smooth with us being well looked after by the Flight Attendants.
After a somewhat lengthy baggage collection we were met by Attila Steiner, our guide for the trip and Tibor our driver, loaded up the mini-coach and were on our way by 6.30pm. We drove along-side the west bank of the River Danube north towards the Danube Bend while Attila pointed out some of the bridges and spectacular buildings on the far side in Budapest city. Birds seen on the journey were White Stork, Mallard, Black-headed Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Black Tern, Feral Rock Dove, Collared Dove, White Wagtail, Blackbird, Hooded Crow, House Sparrow and Greenfinch.
As it was May Day holiday time in Hungary, the residents of Budapest had moved out into the countryside and in consequence the hotel we were to have used was booked up. This meant we had to spend our first night in Szentendre, where after a search we found the Hotel Bükkös, a small hotel in the heart of the town on the banks of the Bükkös Brook.
Tuesday, 1st May
Route: Szentendre – Danube River ferry at Visegrád – Lunch at Hort and Border crossing at Sahy – Donovaly – Ruzomberok – Liptovska Mara (Lake) – Bobrovnik
Weather: Cool to start but soon warmed up with clear blue skies all day.
Birds: 71 New Birds: 60 Total To Date 72
A pre breakfast walk along the edge of the brook produced Blackbird, House Sparrow, Mallard, Collared Dove, Great Tit, good close views of a singing male Blackcap, female Black Redstart, Feral Rock Dove, Greenfinch, Buzzard calling, Syrian Woodpecker just outside the hotel, Chaffinch, House Martin, Barn Swallow and Serin. In addition, the sound we were to hear throughout the tour, the call of the Cuckoo.
After loading up the coach with luggage and the necessary lunch equipment, we set off at 9.15 to drive to an hotel in Northern Slovakia overlooking the High Tatras. We first drove north following the Danube until we reached The Bend when we turned east to meet the ferry at Nagymaros. Between the hotel and the ferry we saw several Buzzards and White Storks a Kestrel, Goldfinch and Swift. While waiting to board we saw White Wagtail, five Cormorants, Marsh Harrier, Sparrowhawk, Hooded Crow, House Martin and Black Redstart. Having boarded the ferry we had to wait a while before crossing over to allow a large pusher tug pushing six large barges down river. Once over we turned west and headed for a spot to see nesting Peregrine. Having had good views of one or maybe two birds we retuned to drive east along the north bank of the Danube before turning north to head for the Border Crossing at Hort. Stopping for our picnic lunch just before the border, we saw White stork, Crested Lark, Whitethroat, Stonechat, Corn Bunting, Pheasant heard calling as was Skylark, Black Stork, Raven circling with Buzzards, Yellow Wagtail and Hooded Crow as well as the first of the large number of butterflies we were to see.
Once over the border we tried to change money into Slovakian Koruny, but the exchange wasn’t going to open until 2.00pm. As it was only 20 minutes away we decided to wait but it was not until 2.20 that someone finally arrived, so a little time was lost there. Here we learnt that it is better to exchange money at the border rather than in the airport as you get a much better rate of exchange. However, while we waited we had the spectacle of a Buzzard being attacked by two Hobbies; the Buzzard rolling onto its back and extending its talons to ward off the Hobbies. Very impressive! Also seen along the way at various stops, including the ski resort of Donovaly, were Song Thrush, Linnet, Starling, Kestrel, Raven, Blue Tit, Magpie, Jackdaw, Yellowhammer, a very nice sighting of a White-tailed Eagle, Fieldfare and Mistle Thrush.
Before reaching the Hotel we stopped at the Liptovska Mara, or reservoir, not far from the hotel we were heading for where we had a good selection of water birds including Grey Heron, Common and Whiskered Tern, Great Crested Grebe, Garganey, Goldeneye, Tufted Duck, Teal, pair of Shelduck, Coot, Mute Swan, Sand Martin, two Spotted Redshank, Redshank, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper as well as Willow Warbler, Redstart, Chiffchaff, Whitethroat and Blackcap.
Night spent at Hotel Jamajka at Bobrovnik overlooking Liptovska Mara with a room looking out onto a fantastic backdrop of the Low and High Tatras. The last bird heard today was a Nightingale.
Wednesday, 2nd May
Route: Bobrovnik – Oravsky Podzámok – Orava Forest Region – Lucky - Bobrovnik
Weather: Clear bright sky but cold to start (frost on cars and grass). Getting warmer during the day but still with cloudless skies.
Birds: 63 New Birds: 13 Total To Date: 95
Pre-breakfast walk around the hotel produced Lesser Whitethroat, Whitethroat, Song Thrush, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Greenfinch, Grey Heron, Turtle Dove and Goldfinch.
Today we were joined by a local guide, Dusan Karaska. It was hoped that we would be shown a White-backed Woodpecker as we walked in the Orava Forest Region but it was to prove elusive. However, we were to see Crossbills as well as some of the more usual birds. Later we had excellent views of a female Ural Owl, first as she sat on her nest and later as she flew around the area. As Tibor had to park the mini-coach some way away from the nesting area we had a pleasant walk back seeing a Firecrest as it flew from one side of the track to the other. Also seen during the day were Bullfinch, Jay, Tree Pipit, another male Crossbill, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Black Woodpecker and Raven. Later we were to have very good views of Three-toed Woodpecker, a Lesser-spotted Eagle being mobbed by a Raven and a Great-grey Shrike though the ‘scope; Wren and Robin as well as a Dunnock singing and a quick view of a Nutcracker as it flew over the track. Crested Tits were heard calling but not seen but a pair of Coal Tits were, as were Tree Sparrows and Siskin.
Having dropped Dusan off at Tvrdosín, right underneath Castle Orava, we headed back to Bobrovnik to spend the night at Hotel Jamajka.
Unfortunately, the planned Bear Watching trip was cancelled at the very last moment, in circumstances outside the control of Ecotours. In its place we watched over the lake by the side of the Hotel where we had distant views of Black-throated and Red-Throated Divers, Red-necked and Great-crested Grebe as well as the usual warblers, tits and starts.
Thursday, 3rd May
Route: Bobrovnik – Prosiek Dolina (Valley) – Janska Dolina – Demanovska Dolina – Liptovska Mara - Bobrovnik
Weather: Brilliant clear blue skies but cold at first (-2C). Warmed up through the day. Very still, no wind.
Birds: 69 New Birds: 13 Total To Date: 108
A pre-breakfast walk along the road below the hotel along side the lake gave me some of the most concentrated bird song I had heard for some time. Whitethroat, Lesser Whitethroat, Blackcap, Willow Warbler. Chiffchaff, Greenfinch, Blackbird, Linnet, Turtle Dove, Robin, Wren, Song Thrush; a wonderful sound. The other side of the hotel, on higher ground, produced Kestrel, Starling, Tree Pipit, Yellowhammer and Blue Tit. Altogether, a very uplifting 45 minutes.
Set off from the hotel at about 9.15 but stopped a few times in the first 300 metres to look over the lake and finally on the corner opposite Salas Restaurant to see several Fieldfare as well as a number of the usual warblers, tits and other birds. Two cuckoos were seen quite close, Reed Bunting heard calling and although it was very close we were unable to get a good view of a Sedge Warbler as it was skulking in the nearby reeds while Wood Warblers sang all round. Grasshopper Warbler was heard very much in the distance.
On the drive to the Prosiek Valley we had the first of many Red-backed Shrikes we were to see, while in the valley we hoped to see Wall Creeper but recent reports were not encouraging. As expected we failed to see it, but had a brief glimpse of a Dipper as it flew past, plenty of Grey Wagtails, Wood Pigeon, Marsh Tit and a large number of butterflies. Continuing our journey, we stopped on a bridge at the entrance to an hotel with the idea of walking up the river to get a better view of a Dipper. But while scanning the area, one flew under the bridge and settled on rocks a little down stream allowing all to get excellent views. A visit to the Janska Dolina where we had lunch, gave us good views of Peregrine, Willow Tit and Siskin while Blackcap, Tree Pipit, Ring Ouzel and Crested Tits were all heard calling but not seen. Quiet for birds, possibly due to time of day, but very good for butterflies with close views of several Camberwell Beautys.
Moving onto the Demanovska Dolina, into an area of skiing activity, we scanned the nearby hills to see if we could locate Chamois but without success. However, while looking we heard a call and turning to try to find what it was, saw perched in full view giving superb views, a very handsome male Ring Ouzel.
Before returning to the hotel, we stopped at the lake we had visited two days before. In addition to the birds seen previously, we were able to add Gadwall, Pochard and four Black Terns to the list.
Night at Hotel Jamajka, Bobrovnik.
Friday, 4th May
Route: Bobrovnik – Pribylina – Poprad – Szepes Castle - Jasov
Weather: Just like the past few days, woke to brilliant clear skies with no wind. Cloud cover starting to build up during the day.
Birds: 63 New Birds: 4 Total To Date: 112
A walk in the hotel grounds before breakfast produced the usual wagtails, thrushes, warblers, tits, finches and other birds but in addition this morning we had Corn Bunting. Also seen was a pair of Shelduck flying around and around over the hotel grounds and, as ever, Cuckoos calling.
As we loaded up the coach to travel to the Slovakian Karst, we had sighting of our first mammals, 5 Roe Deer on the edge of the hotel grounds quickly followed by sightings along the road of a Hare, Red Fox and a Red Squirrel.
Birds seen at our first stop at Pribylina included Mistle Thrush, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Yellowhammer, pair of Whinchat, Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Tree Pipit, female Pied Flycatcher and the ever present Buzzard.
Leaving Pribylina to travel to Poprad we drove through the area of planted pines that had been destroyed by a hurricane in 2004. The scale of the devastation was incredible with large areas completely flattened while trees alongside appeared to be relatively untouched. The work to clear the fallen trees was still progressing but the roots, some still in the ground and some pulled up when the trees fell, have still to be removed. The hurricane also damaged property and some of these were now being repaired.
Stopping at a lookout point, we had excellent views of an adult Golden Eagle as it flew around overhead trying to avoid the attention of a Raven who eventually drove the eagle almost down to the ground before calling off the chase and turning to go back home. Also seen here were three Buzzards, a Kestrel, Black Stork, Stonechat and a distant Turtle Dove calling. Attila picked up the call of a Barred Warbler but no one in the group was able to hear it!
Halted for fuel in Poprad and were surprised to see the number of Rook’s nests in the town. Most trees in the area we were in had nests with the traffic roaring past.
Stopped for lunch at a site overlooking Szepes Castle before driving on to our new hotel, Ranc Sugov, in the forest near Medzev on the edge of the National Park. Once settled in, a glance out of the bedroom window gave Pam and myself a sighting of three nearby Hawfinches.
Taking a short walk before dinner produced Grey Wagtail, Sparrowhawk, Marsh Tit, Song Thrush, Wood Pigeon, Buzzard, Chaffinch and more Hawfinch.
Night at Hotel Ranc Sugov.
Saturday, 5th May
Route: Ranc Sugov – Jasov – Stós Mountains – Turna Fishponds – Chym Fishponds – Vuzica - Hotel Ranc Sugov
Weather: Rain overnight, which continued off and on for the rest of the day.
Birds: 85 New Birds: 18 Total To Date: 130
Woke up to very different weather to that which we had become used to over the past four days. A glance out of the bedroom window showed five Hawfinch and a pre breakfast walk added Grey Wagtail feeding young, Blackcap, Song Thrush, Mallard on the nearby water, more Hawfinches and a Nuthatch nesting in the top of a hollow concrete telegraph pole.
Following a drive to the nearby town of Jasov to pick up our second local guide, Samuel Pacenovsky, we headed off to the Stós Mountains in the hope of finding a nesting owl. After a very wet walk, during which we hoped to see Hazel Grouse, we were shown a nest box and told to watch the entrance to it. After a few minutes we were delighted to see a Tengmalm’s Owl poke its head out of its box and have a good look around. Having made sure there was nothing else to see, he, or she, concentrated its stare on us which it continued to do for three to four minutes before popping back into the warmth and dryness of its nest box. This bird must have been a strong contender for the bird of the day, if not for the trip.
A wet walk back to the coach, during which we saw dropping of Hazel Grouse but no birds as well as Wolf paw prints, produced no other birds and so we set off for the Turna Fishponds. This was a largish lake with reeds in the background and woodland to the side that was good for woodpeckers. From there we travelled to the Chym Fishponds which consist of at least four large ponds, also with reedy edges, developed for commercial breeding of fish. One of the ponds had been drained so it was encouraging waders. Birds seen on the ponds or around the area included Little Grebe, by just Pam and John, Great Crested Grebe, Cormorant, Grey Heron, Mallard, Wigeon, Gadwall, Teal, Pochard, Kestrel, Hobby, a Moorhen heard calling, four Marsh Harriers, Buzzard, Tufted Duck, Lapwing, a number of Little Gulls flying with the Black-headed Gulls and one White-winged Tern flying with Whiskered and Black Terns. Plenty of House Martins and Barn Swallows over the water as well as Yellow Wagtail, Savi’s, Sedge and Reed, Great Reed Warbler, Grass-hopper Warbler heard. During the walk through the Chym Ponds we had good views of a pair of Penduline Tit before reaching the drained pond where we saw one Little Egret, Ringed Plovers, two Black Storks, three Little Ring Plovers, Spotted Redshank, Ruff and Wood Sandpiper. A Bittern was heard booming, but naturally not seen!
On our way back we stopped at Vuzica to see their collection of White Storks nests. Although not all occupied, there were 17 nests in the village of which they were very proud.
After a very unpromising start with heavy rain, the day turned out to be very good with more new birds than any day except the first.
Dropped Samuel, the local guide, off in Jasov before returning to spend the night at Ranc Sugov.
Sunday, 6th May
Route: Ranc Sugov – Jasov Valley – Zadiel Valley – Turna Castle and Fishponds.
Weather: Heavy rain over night again with spells of rain on and off for most of the day.
Birds: 79 New Birds: 15 Total To Date: 145
The rain eased off to allow a pre breakfast walk during which we had the pleasure of a Golden Oriole calling from the top of a nearby tree. Among other birds seen were a Nuthatch nesting in the top of a telegraph pole, Lesser Whitethroat and Coal Tit.
Drove into the nearby town of Jasov to pick up our third local guide, István Matis - known as Pista - who was to be with us for the next two days. Off to the Jasov Valley with its large lake at the entrance around which we saw three Common Sandpipers, Hawfinch, Nuthatch and Roe Deer. Further down the track we had good views of Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and Collared Flycatcher flying from one side of the track to the other. Walking well past the lake and into the wooded part of the valley we came to a steep and very muddy track on the right which had been used by logging vehicles. The nest hole of a White-backed Woodpecker was known along the track and Pam, Vernon and myself set off led by Pista to find it. After slip sliding up the slope and walking through deep leaf litter for some 300 metres we were shown the nest hole and waited for the male bird to return with food. After some 20 minutes we all had good but brief views of the bird before it flew away; well worth the walk. On our walk back we came across a number of Fire Salamanders, also struggling with the mud.
Once back on the main track we joined up with the rest of the group and we saw a party of Long-tailed Tits, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher and later on, good views of a Dipper. A Green Woodpecker called as we left the valley. From there we drove to the Zadiel Valley in the Slovak Karst National Park, where we had our lunch on sheltered benches away from the rain. Afterwards we walked a short distance into the valley before turning back when a Syrian Woodpecker delighted us as it flew from tree to tree. Stopping in Zádiel village we had excellent views of a Wryneck as it perched obligingly in a close tree. So ended twenty years of that bird being my bogey bird! As we were trying to find the Wryneck, a Hobby flew by and a Black Woodpecker was heard. Returning to the Turna Fishponds the rest of the group were able to see Little Grebe, Pochard, plenty of Marsh Harriers and Buzzards plus a Hobby and a Grey-headed Woodpecker.
A trip to a nearby quarry gave us distant views of a Rock Bunting and after leaving the quarry, a pair of Little Owls were seen in wooden ‘chimneys’ of a close-by disused factory.
In the evening, after dinner, a net was erected at the back of the hotel to catch bats. Due to the coolness of the weather just two bats were caught; a Pipistrelle and a Daubenton’s, but they were seen up close and the Pipistrelle was held in the hand by Pam before releasing it.
Night at the Hotel Ranc Sugov
Monday, 7th May
Route: Ranc Sugov – Sugov Valley – Jasov – Quarry near Moldava – Turna Castle – Krasnahorka Castle – Bélapátfalva Monastery – Eger - Noszvaj.
Weather: Wet again overnight but this time with low mist slow to clear. Conditions improved as we moved south but still with occasional showers, heavy at times.
Birds: 62 New Birds: 4 Total To Date: 149
Despite the poor conditions, an early morning walk produced Grey Wagtail still feeding young, Blackcap, Swallows over the pool, Black Redstart, Chiffchaff, Nuthatch and the Golden Oriole which could be heard calling through the mist. After loading up the coach for our journey back to Hungary, we walked up the valley above the hotel were we had cracking views of Red-breasted Flycatcher flying around in the tree above. Also found was a Yellow-bellied Toad.
Our first stop was at a house that had vacated some five years ago and had now been occupied by Lesser Horseshoe Bats with as many as 50 in the roof space. We retraced out steps to a quarry just past the Little Owl spot to check for Rock Thrush but without success. This quarry was also a traditional nesting place for a pair of Eagle Owls for many years but this was destroyed by the quarrying. However, Celia did see a Kingfisher fly down a ditch. A further stop at an old building that appeared to be a former water driven scythe mill produced more bats. While driving along, Pista picked up the sound of a River Warbler on the road side and after a short search found the bird in nearby bushes. A trip to another quarry in search of a Barred Warbler proved fruitless as it was thought perhaps it was too early, but we did see Yellowhammer, Turtle Dove, Corn Bunting, Cuckoo, Stonechat and a Raven mobbing a Buzzard. Once on the road again we had up to seven Lesser Spotted Eagles plus numbers of Marsh Harriers, one of which was giving us a very spectacular display, diving and wheeling about in the air.
Dropped Pista at home before heading of south. Stopped to take photographs of Krasnahorka Castle near Roznava a Disney type castle perched on the top of a hill and one of the best preserved castles we had seen. Crossed the border at Banréve just north of Ozd and the first birds to be seen in Hungary were Jay and Golden Oriole. A further stop was made to view a field with a profusion of Man Orchids. One last stop before we reached the hotel was at the Bélapátfalva Benedictine Monastery were we had Stock Dove, Turtle Dove, Tree Sparrows, Jay and yet another Lesser Spotted Eagle.
Night at Hotel Nomad at Noszvaj, 10 kilometres east of Eger. Although the food we had received both in Hungary and Slovakia had been good and enjoyable, that we were to receive at Hotel Nomad was by far the best both in quality, quantity and presentation.
Tuesday, 8th May
Route: Noszvaj – Little Hortobágy – Hortobágy - Budapest Ferihegy Airport/Manchester International Airport.
Weather: A dry morning for a change with general cloud cover. Clouds dispersed during the day to give sunny intervals but the wind has risen to become quite blustery.
Birds: 93 New Birds: 17 Total To Date: 166
An early morning walk around the hotel and nearby lake gave us Nuthatch, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Golden Oriole, Black Redstart, Red-backed Shrike, Serin, Hawfinch, Tree Sparrow, Turtle Dove, Goldfinch and a party of Long-tailed Tits. Also seen was a Black Woodpecker, unfortunately missed by Roy J as he was desperate to see one and had missed them all on the trip.
Loaded up the coach and left the hotel after the best breakfast we have had on the trip. Breakfasts have generally been good but this was by far the best; it is just as well we were only there for one night as we may have had problems getting out of the door!
The original itinerary for the trip was to spend the last day at the Bükk National Park. But as we had covered most of the species likely to be seen there, we headed first for the Little Hortobágy and then on to the Hortobágy and the Hortobágyi Nemzeti Park. Here we were to see a whole range of new birds at various stops including Pygmy Cormorant, Night Heron, plenty of Great White Egrets, Spoonbill, Greylag Geese, Ferruginous Duck, Short-toed Eagle. A quick sighting of an Imperial Eagle as it rose above the trees and then dropped, never to be seen again, Red-footed Falcon, Black-winged Stilt, Avocet, Black-tailed Godwit, Caspian Gull, Roller, Sedge Warbler, Marsh Warbler heard singing and Lesser Grey Shirke. Quail were heard again but not seen.
Not only had the best hotel been left to the end, but one of the best days birding had happened on the last day.
And with that, we settled down on the coach, collected our things together and drove to the airport for the flight home. As we approached Budapest we were starting to hit the ‘rush hour’, but to add to that we were caught at every level crossing – of which there were many – and so were a little apprehensive regarding making the check-in time. Anyway, we need not have worried as we arrive in ample time, said an unduly hasty goodbye to both Tibor and Attila and went to spend our last few florins at the Duty Free shops.
A good but slightly bumpy flight back to Manchester, a panic due to cases being left in the hold and only delivered after playing our faces at Baggage Reclaim desk - good job it was the last flight of the day or they may have been taken back to Budapest. And so ended an extremely enjoyable trip run by a very well organised company with excellent staff members. Very much to be recommended.
SYSTEMATIC LISTS
BIRDS
This includes all the species either seen or heard while in Hungary and Slovakia by members of the group, along with details of where they were observed.
The sequence, together with their English and scientific names generally follows Howard and Moore - A Complete Checklist of the Birds of the World (Second edition).
1 Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata
About 6 on the Liptovska Mara on the 2nd.
2 Black-throated Diver Gavia arctica
About 15 on the Liptovska Mara on the 2nd.
3 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
1 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th, 1 at Turna Fishponds on the 6th, also 1 heard calling at the Hortobágy on the 8th.
4 Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena
1 on the Liptovska Mara on the 2nd.
5 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Seen at all large waters visited.
6 Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus
5 seen flying over at Hortobágy on the 8th
7 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Seen at most waters visited.
8 Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Just 1 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
9 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Seen most days in all habitats.
10 Great White Egret Casmerodius albus
Not seen until the 8th when it was common on the Hortobágy.
11 Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax
About 6 seen on the Hortobágy on the 8th.
12 Great Bittern Botaurus stellaris
None seen but heard booming at Chym Fishponds on the 5th and at Hortábagy on the 8th.
13 Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Pairs seen on the 1st, 4th and 5th.
14 White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Very common with birds seen every day except 30th and 3rd.
15 Eurasian Spoonbill Platelea leucorodia
2 at the Hortobágy on the 8th.
16 Mute Swan Cygnus olor
Seen on the Liptovska Mara on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th.
17 Greylag Goose Anser anser
Large number, possibly up to 40 or 50 , at the Hortobágy on the 8th.
18 Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna
Pairs seen at Liptovska Mara on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
19 Eurasian Wigeon Anas Penelope
Just 2 seen on the Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
20 Gadwall Anas strepera
4 at Liptovska Mara on the 3rd and 4 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
21 Common Teal Anas crecca crecca
Seen in numbers up to 12 on the 1st, 3rd and 5th.
22 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
The most common duck seen every day.
23 Garganey Anas querquedula
1 or 2 birds on the Liptovska Mara on the 1st and 3rd.
24 Common Pochard Aythya farina
Seen at Liptovska Mara on the 3rd, Chym Fishponds on the 5th, Turna Fishponds on the 6th and Hortobágy on the 8th.
25 Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
1 pair, maybe 2, at the Hortobágy on the 8th.
26 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Seen in good numbers at Liptovska Mara on the 1st and 3rd and at Turna and Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
27 Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula
2 on Liptovska Mara on the 1st.
28 White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla
1 bird seen shortly after crossing border into Slovakia on the 1st.
29 Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
1 bird seen flying over the Hortobágy on the 8th.
30 Western Marsh-harrier Circus aeruginosus
Seen on the journey on the 1st and then in large numbers from the 5th to the 8th, mainly males but also some females.
31 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
1 on the journey on the 1st, 1 on journey on the 4th and 1 at Bélapátfalva Monastery on the 7th.
32 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Common, seen every day.
33 Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina
Seen while driving along the road. 2 on the 2nd, 2 on the 4th and up to 8 on the 7th.
34 Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca
I bird seen rising above distant trees before disappearing again in the Little Hortobágy on the 8th.
35 Golden Eagle Aquila chrystaetos
1 sighting at Lookout point near Poprad on the 4th.
36 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Between 1 and 4 birds seen every day.
37 Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus
About 25 birds seen at the traditional nesting site at Hortobágy.
38 Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo
2 observed mobbing Buzzard on the border on the 1st, 1 at Chym Fishpond on the 5th and 1 at Turna Fishponds on the 6th.
39 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
2 birds at nest site SW of Nagymaros on the 1st, 1 in the Orava Forest on the 2nd and 1 in the Janska Valley on the 3rd.
40 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
Heard calling near Turna Castle on the 5th and on the Hortobágy on the 8th, but not seen.
41 Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus
Singles seen on the 1st and on the 5th to the 8th.
42 Water Rail Rallus aquaticus
1 heard squealing on the 8th at Hortobágy.
43 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Uncommon. Heard on the Chym Fishponds on the 5th and couple on the 6th at Turna Fishponds.
44 Common Coot Fulica atra
Common. Seen at most large waters.
45 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Seen at Hortobágy on the 8th.
46 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
2 birds at Hortobágy on the 8th.
47 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
2 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
48 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
3 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
49 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
1 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th, 1 at Turna Fishponds on the 6th and about 4 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
50 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
1 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
51 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
2 at Liptovska Mara on the 1st, 2 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th and 1 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
52 Common Redshank Tringa tetanus
4 at Liptovska Mara on the 1st and about 3 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
53 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Seen only at Liptovska Mara on the 1st.
54 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Similar to Spotted Redshank.
55 Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos
3 at Liptovska Mara on the 1st and 4 at Jasov Valley pool on the 6th.
56 Ruff Philomachus pugnax
About 6 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th and about 5 on the Hortobágy on the 8th, at least 1 still in breeding plumage.
57 Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans [argentatus]
Seen on the Danube on the 30th and at Liptovska Mara on the 1st and 2nd.
58 Caspian Gull Larus michahellis
About 6 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
59 Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Seen every day at various locations apart from the 6th and 7th.
60 Little Gull Larus minutes
Several seen at Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
61 Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Seen on the Liptovska Mara on the 1st and 3rd.
62 Whiskered Tern Childonias hybridus
Seen at Liptovska Mara on the 1st, Chym Fishponds on the 5th and at the Hortobágy on the 8th.
63 White-winged Black Tern Childonias leucopterus
1 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th and 1 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
64 Black Tern Childonias niger
4 at Liptovska Mara on the 3rd, 2 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th and some at Hortobágy.
65 Feral Pigeon Columba livia 'feral'
Seen every day in varying numbers.
66 Stock Dove Columba oenas
Just 1 bird seen on the journey between Jasov and Noszvaj on the 7th.
67 Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
Seen every day from the 3rd onwards.
68 European Turtle-dove Streptopelia turtur
Seen or heard from the 2nd to the 5th and on 7th and 8th.
69 Eurasian Collared-dove Streptopelia decaocto
Very common with sightings every day.
70 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus
Seen most days but heard continually every day.
71 Ural Owl Strix uralensis
1 nesting bird at Oravsky Podzàmok on the 2nd.
72 Little Owl Athene noctua
2 seen in factory near to Zadiel Valley on the 6th.
73 Tengmalm's Owl Aegolius funereus
Good views of 1 bird in the Stós Mountains on the 5th.
74 Common Swift Apus apus
Seen every day in varying numbers.
75 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
1 seen near to ‘Little Owl factory’ on the 7th
76 European Roller Coracias garrulous
Distant view of 1 bird on the Hortobágy on the 8th.
77 Hoopoe Upupa epops
1 at the Jasov Valley on the 6th and 1 at the Hortobagy on the 8th.
78 Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
Good close view of 1 bird at Zádiel on the 6th and 1 heard on the Hortobágy on the 8th.
79 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor
1 giving good views at the Jasov Valley on the 6th.
80 Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius
Heard on the 6th but not seen until at the Pool behind hotel at Noszvaj on the 8th.
81 White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos
1 bird seen at nesting hole in Jasov Valley on the 6th.
82 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major
3 sightings if single birds on the 2nd, 4th and 6th.
83 Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus
Single birds seen along the Bükkös Brook at Szentendre on the 1st and at Zadiel Valley on the 6th.
84 Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus
1 bird giving good views in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd.
85 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius
1 seen flying above track in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd, 1 heard in the Jasov Valley on the 6th and 1 at Noszvay on the 8th.
86 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis
1 heard in the Jasov Valley on the 6th and 1 seen at Noszvaj on the 8th
87 Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus
1 seen in woodlands near Turna Fishponds on the 6th.
88 Crested Lark Galerida cristata
1 seen at lunch stop on the 1st and then regular sighting from 5th to the 8th.
89 Wood Lark Lullula arborea
2 singing birds on the 6th at the quarry close to Turna.
90 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis
Seen or heard most days.
91 Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Undetermined numbers seen at Liptovska Mara on the 1st, Chym Fishponds on the 5th and Hortobágy on the 8th.
92 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common, seen every day.
93 House Martin Delichon urbica
Also common and seen everyday.
94 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
Seen at various places on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 7th.
95 White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Seen anywhere, everyday.
96 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava flava
1 seen at Liptovska Mara on the 1st and then at the Fishponds on the 5th, 6th and 7th and at the Hortobágy on the 8th.
97 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
First seen in the Prosiek Valley on the 3rd and then regularly to the 7th.
98 White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus gularis
Brief view in the Prosiek Valley on the 3rd plus better view of 1 bird later on bridge outside hotel and 1 in the Jasov Valley on the 6th.
99 Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes troglodytes
Birds regularly seen or heard from the 2nd to the 7th.
100 Dunnock Prunella modularis
Number of birds seen near Hotel Jamajka at Bobrovnik on the 2nd and 3rd.
101 European Robin Erithacus rubecula
1 or 2 birds seen each day between 2nd and 7th.
102 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos
Birds heard singing at various sites on the 1st and then between the 5th to the 8th. 1 good sighting in the woodlands next to the Turna Fishponds
103 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
Several birds seen each day at various sites.
104 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Seen in the grounds of the Hotel Jamajka at Bobrovnik on the 1st and again on the 4th.
105 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
Pair at Pribylina on the 4th and pair in Jasov Valley on the 6th.
106 Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata
Regularly seen on all days except 2nd and 3rd.
107 Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus
1 excellent sighting in the Demanovska Valley on the 3rd.
108 Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula
Possibly the most common bird with sightings every day.
109 Fieldfare Turdus pilaris
Regular sightings in northern Slovakia and 1 bird on the 7th.
110 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos
Seen every day in small numbers.
111 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
1 at Donovaly on the 1st. Seen in 1s and 2s on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th in Northern Slovakia.
112 Common Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia
Heard in distance at Bobrovnik on the 3rd, also heard on the 5th and 7th but not seen.
113 River Warbler Locustella fluviatilis
1 located by song while driving from Turna to Moldava, later seen briefly in roadside bushes.
114 Savi's Warbler Locustella luscinioides
1 singing bird at the Chym Fishponds on the 5th.
115 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Singing birds located at Chym Fishponds on the 7th and at Hortobágy on the 8th.
116 Eurasian Reed-warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus
Just 1 bird at Chem Fishponds on the 5th.
117 Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris
A single bird singing at Hortobágy on the 8th.
118 Great Reed-warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
1 at Chym Fishponds on the 5th, 1 at Turns Fishponds on the 6th and 1 at Hortobágy on the 8th.
119 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
One of the most common warblers seen and heard every day.
120 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis
Another common warbler seen every day.
121 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca
Slightly less common than the Common Whitethroat, but still seen and heard every day
122 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Seen and heard most days but not on the 6th and 8th.
123 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Seen and heard every day except 6th.
124 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix
Plenty of singing birds in the Bobrovnik area.
125 Goldcrest Regulus regulus
Heard near Hotel Jamajka at Bobrovnik on the 1st and 2nd and seen at Prosiek Valley on the 3rd.
126 Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus
1 seen flying back and forth across the track in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd.
127 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Just one bird seen in the Jasov Valley on the 6th.
128 Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
1 seen at Pribylina on the 4th.
129 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis
Seen in the Jasov Valley on the 6th and near the pool at the rear of the hotel in Noszvaj.
130 Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva
1 bird seen flying about in the valley above the hotel at Sugov
131 Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Parties seen in the Jasov Valley on the 6th and at the rear of the hotel in Noszvaj
132 Marsh Tit Parus palustris
Single birds seen on the 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th
133 Willow Tit Parus montanus
Sinlge birds seen on the 3rd and 4th.
134 Coal Tit Parus ater
Various sighting between the 2nd and 7th.
135 Crested Tit Parus cristatus
Birds heard calling in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd.
136 Great Tit Parus major
Common. Seen every day
137 Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
Common. Seen every day.
138 Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea
1 bird seen going to nest in telegraph pole at Ranc Sugov on 6th, 7th and 8th.
139 Eurasian Penduline-tit Remiz pendulinus
2 birds seen high in tree at the Chym Fishponds on 5th.
140 Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus
1 male bird calling from tree tops at Ranc Sugov on 6th, 7th and 8th.
141 Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio [cristatus]
First bird seen in the Prosiek Valley on the 3rd. Afterwards seen regularly until end of trip.
142 Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor
Just one at Hortobágy on the 8th.
143 Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor
1 in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd.
144 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
1 in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd. 2 in the Jasov Valley on the 6th and 1 in the Sugov Valley on 7th.
145 Black-billed Magpie Pica pica
Common. Seen every day
146 Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes
Just one quick sighting as one flew across the track at Lucky on the 2nd.
147 Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Fairly common in Northern Slovakia plus seen in the Hortobágy on the 8th.
148 Rook Corvus frugilegus
Few seen on the 3rd, but large numbers seen in Poprad on the 4th.
149 Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix
Very common. Seen everywhere on all days.
150 Common Raven Corvus corax
Common bird seen every day.
151 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris
Seen in small numbers every day.
152 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Seen every day but never in large numbers.
153 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
2 birds seen in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd and then not until we reached Ranc Sugov on the 5th, 6thand 7th. Also seen in Noszvaj around the pool at rear of hotel.
154 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
Common, seen every day.
155 European Serin Serinus serinus
Seen most days in 1s and 2s.
156 European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Common and seen every day.
157 Eurasian Siskin Carduelis spinus
Seen only in northern Slovakia.
158 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Regular sightings every day.
159 Eurasian Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Seen regularly every day except 30th and 7th.
160 Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra
Seen in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd and Prosiek Valley on the 3rd.
161 Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula
Just 1 call heard in the Orava Forest Region on the 2nd.
162 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes
Plentiful around Hotel Ranc Sugov with 2 on the 4th, 8 on the 5th and 6 on the 6th. Also seen around the pool at the rear of Hotel Nomad in Noszvaj on the 8th.
163 Yellowhammer Emberiza citronella
Seen every day in 1s and 2s.
164 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
1 seen on the 6th and 7th around Jasov.
165 Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus
1 heard calling in Bobrovnik on the 3rd.
166 Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra
First bird heard at Hotel Jamajka at Bobrovnik. Also seen while travelling on the 4th to the 8th.
