Giant sand dunes, the Skeleton Coast and Etosha National Park
Namibia, 15 days

Namibia is an excellent destination for birdwatching, with a bird list of over 600 species including many endemic to the region. It is still a relatively unknown and sparsely populated country. As well as its abundant birdlife, Namibia boasts fabulous game and wildlife watching. Needless to say, it offers fantastic photographic opportunities, with approachable birds and animals, and unique and outstanding scenery.
Namibia is a politically stable country, having achieved independence from South Africa in 1990. Since then it has become increasingly popular as a birdwatching destination. The infrastructure is first class, with good quality accommodation and transport. One can travel for miles on deserted roads, stopping occasionally to watch Pale Chanting Goshawks, Northern Black Korhaans, Crowned Plovers and various game at the roadside. In Etosha National Park the game watching is unrivalled, without the attendant crowds experienced in East Africa.
We recover from our flight with one night in Windhoek, getting to know the commoner birds as well as searching for scarce wetland species. The next day we drive south-west to the famous Sossusvlei dunes for two nights, after which we head north-west to the Skeleton Coast, for a stay of two nights. On day seven we head north towards Etosha, breaking the journey with one night at Erongo. Etosha National Park merits the greatest share of our time, and we shall spend a total of five nights at three tourist camps. On day 13 we will head back south to the Waterberg Plateau, our base for the final night, where there are opportunities to view birds not previously encountered. From Waterberg there is a relatively short drive back to Windhoek, in time for our return flight home.

Our tour is offered in conjunction with Bird Holidays. Bird Holidays have been visiting Namibia for six years, and this will be Phil Palmer’s seventh visit.

Day 1
We take an overnight flight from London to Windhoek in Namibia.

Day 2
Arriving at Windhoek on an overnight flight, we transfer straight to the pleasant Palmquell Guesthouse, for the first night. Many common species are attracted to the gardens around the guesthouse, including Yellow-billed Hornbill, Violet-eared Waxbill and the ubiquitous Grey Lourie. A visit to a nearby wetland may yield African Darter, Red Bishop, Hottentot Teal and Swallow-tailed Bee-eater.
Accommodation: Windhoek, Palmquell Guesthouse

Days 3-4
The next day we enter the Namib Naukluft Desert and the famous Sossusvlei dunes, birdwatching en route. We will drive up to the dunes, the largest and most spectacular in the world, for an experience never to be forgotten. Rising to over 1000 feet above the surrounding plains, the dunes are home to various mammals including Oryx and Springbok. Every species has adapted to survive with the minimum of rainfall; the only source of moisture being night-time mists which roll in from the cold Atlantic. Ostrich stride, statesman-like, across the horizon, while the regional endemic Ruppell’s Korhaan finds cover in small patches of dry grass. Found nowhere else in the world, the endemic Dune Lark is located using knowledge of its critical habitat requirements.
Accommodation: Sossusvlei, Namib Naukluft Lodge

Days 5-6
We head towards the Atlantic coast. We have two nights in Walvis Bay exploring the Skeleton Coast. The climate is remarkably cool, a result of the cold Benguela Current which flows all the way from Antarctica.
Walvis Bay is the best site on the west coast of Africa to see thousands of shorebirds. Lesser and Greater Flamingos form a pink backdrop to the masses of waders and terns feeding here. Specialities include African Black Oystercatcher and Chestnut-banded Plover, and the endemic Damara Tern which nests in the desert. Thousands of Cape Cormorants nest on specially constructed guano platforms and Cape Fur Seals will be pupping. Pelicans, Cape Gannets and White-chinned Petrels can be found during a boat trip in the bay, when we also have a chance of seeing Jackass Penguin and the rare Benguela Dolphin.
Accommodation: Walvis Bay, Hotel Langholm

Day 7
On day seven we return inland via the impressive granite outcrop of Spitzkoppe, watching for Mountain Zebras en route. We hope to find the endemic Gray’s Lark and the elusive Herero Chat. The pale wheatear-like Karoo and Tractrac Chats perch on boulders and we should find many of the lark species for which Namibia is famous.
The Erongo Wilderness Lodge is situated among the spectacular granite domes of the Erongo Mountains. Birdwatching is excellent with Verreaux’s Eagle, Black-chested Snake-eagle, Hartlaub’s Francolin, Pririt Batis, Melba Finch, Freckled Nightjar, Short-toed Rock-thrush, Kalahari Robin and the endemic White-tailed Shrike all possible.
Accommodation: Erongo Wilderness Lodge

Days 8-12
Etosha, 'The Great White Plain' as it is known in the language of the bushman, has been made famous by numerous TV documentaries. It consists of a vast salt pan surrounded by a mixture of bush, woodland and savannah. We will spend a total of five nights here, staying at all three camps in the park, as each one has something different to offer.
Only with experience can one find the star birds and mammals along the many winding trails which connect the springs and waterholes. Elephants, the largest in Africa, dominate the waterholes, driving off other game such as Zebra and Giraffe. Antelopes include Blue Wildebeest, Red Hartebeest, Springbok, the regionally endemic Black-faced Impala, and the appealing Damara Dik Dik. At the time of our visit, towards the end of the dry austral winter, game should be concentrated around the few remaining pools.
Double-banded Coursers feed precariously amongst the feet of big game. Ostrich and Kori Bustard strut by. Although rare here, we have always located the beautiful Blue Crane, arguably the most elegant crane in the world. Owls feature too. We saw African Scops, White-faced Scops, Spotted Eagle Owl, Giant Eagle Owl, Pearl-spotted Owlet and African Marsh Owl on one visit!
After dinner, we shall wait in anticipation at the camp waterholes for the arrival of Elephant, Black Rhino or Lion. Hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse congregate to drink. As the light fades Rufous-cheeked Nightjars take moths around the floodlights.
Accommodation: Etosha, two nights at Okaukuejo Rest Camp, one night at Halali Rest Camp, two nights at Namutoni Rest Camp

Day 13
A good drive south on day 13 will take us to the Waterberg Plateau. This impressive feature dominates the landscape. We will take the opportunity to explore the surrounding bushland on foot. Local specialities such as Monteiro's Hornbill, Damara Rockrunner, Bradfield’s Swift, Crimson-breasted Shrike and Ruppell’s Parrot all occur and Lesser Bushbaby may show up at night.
Accommodation: Waterberg Rest Camp

Day 14
On our last day we will make our way back to the capital, Windhoek, in good time for our evening flight home.

Day 15
We arrive back to London.